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our trip to philmont
our trip to philmont
Crew 702C - July 2014
Crew 702C - July 2014
If you've ever been involved in Scouting you will no doubt hear someone talk about the legend of Philmont, and if you meet a Scouter they will ask you if you ever went there. While I will attempt to capture my time there with my son Anthony and some Scouts from Troop 30 (along with our friends from Troop 147), nothing I say can fully capture the excitement or the experience enough. To live out everything you've learned and practiced in Scouting on a trek in New Mexico still to this day is the pinacle of my Scouting experiences. I met a volunteer at church one day who was involved with Scouting and the word she described the experience with was "spiritual", and the entire time we were there I had that in mind - how right she was.
Getting ready for Philmont involved almost a full year of preparation to get ourselves physically and mentally ready. We had plenty of practice treks on the AT where a Scouter known as "Doc" more than prepared us for our journey.
Below is a little bit of our story shared in words and pictures. I took a small notebook and journaled the whole way (which I highly recommend), and be mindful that the pictures were not taken with today's iPhone standards, but rather a small digital camera that didn't like the altitude and the rigor of the trail.
View from atop Tent Rocks
pre-trek in albuquerque
pre-trek in albuquerque
We started our adventure in Albuquerque, New Mexico, where we arrived a few days before the start of our trek. This helped us to adjust to hiking in the heat, along with acclimating to the altitude. We hiked at the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, which was a challenging hike in the heat, with great slot canyons along the way to the peak. On our way down I learned one lesson the hard way - don't reach out to the sides of the trail, as I ended up brushing against a cactus and was pulling needles from my arm most of the way down. We also visited the Sandia Peak Tramway for a unique ride up the mountain for a great view of Albuqueque from around the 10K peak. We saw a ton of signs referencing "Breaking Bad", and it wasn't until after Philmont did I watch the series and get the references.
Picking Up Food and Gear for the Trail
base camp check-in
base camp check-in
We woke up early at the hotel in Albuquerque, had breakfast, and then headed out on the bus to Philmont. Upon arrival, it was cold and rainy. We didn't really expect the cold, considering we spent two very hot days in Albuquerque. We met our ranger, Andrew, who was to stay with us for the next two days to train us and make sure we were ready for the remainder of the trek without him. Much of the day was spent performing check-ins, signing out equipment and food, and waiting around for medical clearances. We were assigned tents in the outgoing tent city and ate in the mess hall. At night, we attended a campfire program for outbound crews, where much of the program featured the history of Philmont. We then spent a quiet night in tent city, looking forward to our first day on the trail in the morning.
Relaxing After the Hailstorm (yes, hail in July)
trail day 1
trail day 1
Ponil to Bent
Ponil to Bent
We woke up nice and early, eagerly anticipating our trek. We headed off to the mess hall for breakfast, and when we returned, it was time for our shakedown. Our ranger reviewed everything we were planning on taking in our packs, and encouraged us to rethink what we packed versus what we would really need. We weighed our packs as well, and tried to get everyone somewhere around 50-55 pounds, which we'd be carrying on our backs every day. After the shakedown, we headed out for our crew photo, which was tough to take as we were facing the sun. I personally had some drama in the infirmary trying to get them to clear me due to a recent knee injury (fractured patela on an AT practice trek), and I had to reach out to my Orthopedist to fax down a release to let me go (which came in at 9:55am allowing me just enough time to join the crew to hop on the bus to our dropoff, Ponil turnaround). We arrived at Ponil turnaround and were greeted by many horses - they were everywhere! At Ponil we received Red Roof training (Philmont Bathroom 101). We had some downtime and watched some horse barrel racing, and had the chance to get our hats and boots branded. There's also a Philmont Passport that we had stamped as well. From Ponil, we hiked to Bent to set up camp for the night. Of course, a rain and hail storm rolled in, along with cold weather, so we had to quickly put on raingear and put up tents and bear bags in the hail. 2 of our boys left some of their clothing in Ponil (somehow they took out of their bag and forgot to pack again), so they had to hike there and back to retrieve, for an additional 6 miles for the day. Our sister crew visited (Scouts from Troop 147), and we played cards and got some stargazing in before one last set of bear instructions before lights out.
Views from the Vistas
trail day 2
trail day 2
Bent to Wilson Mesa to Baldy Skyline
Bent to Wilson Mesa to Baldy Skyline
Started the morning with an early rise and a Starbucks Via coffee which would become routine for the days at Philmont. We had a late departure and got on the trail, but quickly realized that we took a wrong turn. Once we found our way, we hit a steep uphill climb for over 1 mile, and we quickly established who our lead hiker would be (slowest goest first). We walked across a vista and experienced fantastic views including Mount Baldie in the distance, along with plains on top of the mountains. The wildlife we'd most encounter during our trek were the numerous mule deer, and we got our first views of them along the trail. We hiked through an area that told us from the tree damage that there were some old forest fires here. Much of the hiking was like the AT preparation hikes so we were ready for the trail ahead. We ate lunch at a site named Poblano, where there was pole climbing, but unfortunately a thunder and lightning storm rained out climbing while we were there. We hiked through a torrential downpour, and quickly learned how to get our pack covers on in a hurry. Luckily with the altitude and heat, drying off was quick. Lunch was canned ham that was quite gross, but luckily there are "swap boxes" where you can take or leave food. Luckily tuna is readily available in the swap boxes and makes for a good substitute for food that you may not like. After a quick siesta in the mud, we got on the trail again and met crews from Matthews, NC and Chatam, NJ. Staff at the many camp sites play guitar and musical instruments and sing, so there's plenty of entertainment at Philmont. We hiked to our campsite in the pouring rain, and then set up camp. It was our first experience with the Red Roofs, and the water that was available has a white appearance although we were assured it was potable. Wierd thing was that the pump for water was in a burro pen, so it was a wierd experience in terms of getting water (burros are on the trail with some crews). Andrew our guide surprised the boys with pound cake with icing and sparklers to celebrate the 4th of July. It was a rainy night in our tents, but I don't think anyone cared after a long day of hiking in the rain.
Hiking a Rain-Soaked Trail
trail day 3
trail day 3
Baldy Skyline to Conservation Project to Miranda to Black Horse
Baldy Skyline to Conservation Project to Miranda to Black Horse
Got up early and when I stood quickly getting out of the tent I was reminded of the 9900 foot altitude and got dizzy real quick. It was a horrible night of sleeping, as our campground was on an incline and I felt myself sliding downhill all night. We participated on a service project this day, so we traveled light with only day packs and hiked to the project location. Our service project Included building part of a trail from Baldy Skyline to Ewells Park, and the Philmont staff gave us a lesson on trail building. We ate breakfast for lunch, and broke down camp to hike 4 miles towards a Black Powder Rifle Range. We hiked in the rain through some muddy switchbacks but enjoyed some great views along the way. We had a few creek crossings on logs, which is always fun with 50+ pounds on your back. We were able to grab some fresh water at Miranda, and dumped the white milky water from the previous day. After some tomahawk throwing, we received a gun safety talk and were able to do some black powder shooting which we all enjoyed. Once again, it was cold so we found ourselves looking for jackets before hitting the trail (which was all uphill) to Black Horse. The treat for the night was Famous Amos cookies, and we all rested up in preparation for the Mount Baldy climb the next day. Our sister crew opted to go gold panning, but our crew wanted to relax and watch the many mini-bears (aka chipmunks) at our campsite. The crew was doing well with bonding and working together as we retreated after another successful day on the trail.
Troop 30 Celebrating from atop Mount Baldy!
trail day 4
trail day 4
Baldy Climb and Baldy Town
Baldy Climb and Baldy Town
In preparation for our climb of Mt. Baldy we were up at 4:30am and on the trail by 5:30am. The trail was mostly uphill and was full of rocks, with some old mine cabins along the way. We ate breakfast on the trail, and then it was more uphill hiking. We visited a spot called "The Saddle" that was a huge meadow with great views. The climb was slow and steady, and the higher we got, the tougher it was, especially with the breaths. We were able to text photos from the top of Baldy, and the views were incredible, especially looking at the trails going across the mountains, and the snow caps still on some peaks. Getting down was a lot toughter than getting to the top, as it was steep with lots of loose rocks. We at lunch at Copper Park, and the Red Roofs were fly-infested. We hiked on to Baldy Town and visited a museum. Finally, a shower was available at Baldy Town, and although the water was cold, the shower still felt great. I mailed a few postcards from the base camp there, and was able to buy some Toblerone which I had never had before, and it tasted great. We were also able to wash our underwear (a luxury), and picked up some more food and water for the hike back to camp. We were blessed with good weather (no rain), and enjoyed some chicken and rice for dinner. After hanging the laundry it was time to get some rest. Noticed the camera lens cracked in a weird way - don't recall dropping, but was thinking it may be the altitude that cracked it.
trail day 5
trail day 5
Black Horse to Head of Dean
Black Horse to Head of Dean
We slept in a bit and while I was having coffee I heard an encounter between a mountain lion and a deer just above our campsite up the mountain. The injured deer headed downhill and ended up charging though our campsite with a large gash on its side, and then it sprinted downhill, and that's the last we saw it. We hiked downhill to Miranda and did some tomahawk throwing. Heading out of Miranda we did some creek crossovers with some high water, and hit a bunch of uphill switchbacks on our way to Head of Dean. We set up camp and then enjoyed downtime with badmitton and cards. Sitting on a porch swing at Miranda was wonderful, and you could see Colorado almost 120 miles away from this mountaintop retreat. The COPE course had a number of team challenges including getting everyone over a 12 foot wall. Dinner was a can of chicken for me, as I wasn't brave enough for the chili concoction that the boys were making. The deck of the Miranda lodge also offered adult advisors coffee, hot chocolate, and cookies. We ended the day with Ultimate Frisbee, and Miranda was a great place to spend the afternoon.
trail day 6
trail day 6
Head of Dean to Vista Grande
Head of Dean to Vista Grande
We got to sleep in a little late, and then after morning coffee and breakfast we checked out and filled our water bottles as we were warned that there is no water at Vista Grande. Next was a long downhill hike where we got to mention many other crews heading the other way. We were warned by multiple crews about bears and snakes they saw along the way. We were hiking in a narrow valley, and as we walked I heard footsteps behind us, but couldn't see anything. I thought it was just me, until the other adult in the crew turned around and said "Do you hear that?". Probably wasn't a bear, but we thought that maybe we were being tracked by a mountain lion, who later on got in front of us and left some fresh scat on the trail to let us know he was there. We scooped up some water from the Cimmaron River. The trail then turned into a long uphill climb to Vista Grande. when we arrived it rained as we set things up, and this was the one campsite we encountered with cell phone service. The boys played cards under the rainfly to take advantage of some downtime. The bathroom was just a square of wood with a seat on top - minus the red rough.
trail day 7
trail day 7
Vista Grande to Ute Gulch to Clarks Fork
Vista Grande to Ute Gulch to Clarks Fork
We work up early around 4:30am and hit the trail a little over an hour later, beating our sister crew to the trail. Sunrise was beautiful, flling the sky with a variety of colors with great views of Mount Baldy and the surrounding valleys. The trail included lots of uphill and switchbacks, and we enjoyed our breakfast on the trail. This would turn out to be our longest hiking day mileage-wise. We made our way to a Commisary to pick up some food for the next few days, and we were able to visit a trading post where we indulged in freeze-dried ice cream (astronaut-style). The Commisary gave out cold chocolate mile and fresh apples, which we all enjoyed. We elected to detour down a shorter route through a valley. We had to resort to drinking the water we previously collected from the Cimmaron river, which I'd best describe as a little chunky (it was purified, but that didn't take the chunks out. We stopped for lunch on trail, and it was also an opportune time to treat some potential blisters with moleskin as a preventative measure. We passed a lake/reservoir where people were fly fishing, and then finally made our way to Clarks Fork, where we enjoyed a chuck wagon dinner - beef stew with biscuits and peach cobbler, which after days on the trail was very delicious. We were also able to shower and wash clothes, but with little/no water pressure we mostly showered. We were warned by staff to be vigilant with our bear bags as there were many bear sightings at this camp. There was a campfire conducted at night and it looked like we got luck as the rain seemed all around us but it never rained. It was ate to bed at 11pm after a full day.
trail day 8
trail day 8
Clarks Fork to Tooth of Time to Miners Park
Clarks Fork to Tooth of Time to Miners Park
We woke at 5am to get an early start on what would be a 1200 foot ascent up a rocky and steep trail. We were able to use day packs for our trek to the Tooth of Time, and we planned on having lunch there. My knee was not feeling good after the rocky climb, so I stayed behind as the boys headed up for the climb up the Tooth of Time, as the hike lacked a trail and was more of a rock climb. We were low on water on the steep hike back, and the rocks were hard on everyone's feet. At Miners Park we enjoyed fresh fruit and cold milk. Dinner was canned turkey and stuffing, and we watched the deers surrounding us in the fields as we ate. We hoped to get some star gazing in from the fields we were camping in, but the full moon got in the way. We did get to see a good number of satellites going by though. We were able to get to sleep by 10pm.
trail day 9
trail day 9
Miners Park to Crater Lake to Aguila
Miners Park to Crater Lake to Aguila
We woke up at 7am, as the tents were getting hot from the direct sun hitting us in the fields we camped in. We jumped in the showers that were available, and surprisingly they had great water pressure, at least for the first half of the shower, and then it was a slow trickle to try and rinse. Breakfast was horrible, so animal crackers had to suffice. After breakfast we headed up to the lodge for a 2 mile hike for mountain climbing, where helmets and harnesses were necessary for the climbing and repelling that proved to be fun. We returned to the campsite for lunch, which consisted of wheat thins and canned chicken, and we were treated with cookies that we found in a swap box (box at most sites where you can take or leave food). The boys ate salmon in a pouch, and I gladly gave my portion up for the boys to enjoy. We hiked and came to a site for pole climbing, but the wait was too long for us to stop. We did see a great demo of converting logs to railroad ties as it was done back in 1914. The hike to Aquila was uphill and rocky, and we picked out a great campsite. We could hear many animals up the hill from our site.Dinner was an enjoyable beef stroganoff, and the boys hit the tents early, while the other adult (Keith) and I got in some stargazing and great discussions.
TRAIL day 10
TRAIL day 10
Aguila to Abreau to Zastrow
Aguila to Abreau to Zastrow
We woke up late at 7:30am after a good night of rest and oatmeal, cookies and coffee was the only breakfast available. Despite being low on water we took a side hike to view the valley which was mostly downhill. The scenery at Abreau included adobe houses and a cantina one we arrived, and we treated ourselves to root beer and Toblerone at the trading post. There was a Cello player on the porch, and Gordon from our sister crew played the Cello for us. This site had chickens on a porch with comfy rocking chairs we all enjoyed. We then took a quick downhill hike down road to Zastrow, where we enjoyed some horseshoe competitions. We were warned to be on the lookout as 2 rattlesnakes were killed there the day before we arrived. It was sunny and extremely hot, so we all sat on the covered porch at the sitet to stay cool. The adults enjoyed 7pm Advisor coffee hour along with some fellowship. Dinner included Sante Fe Rice with chicken, and we enjoyed a dutch oven apple cobbler for dessert.
trail day 11
trail day 11
Zastrow to Rayado and Return to Base Camp
Zastrow to Rayado and Return to Base Camp
We finished our 110+ miles on the trail looking forward to seeing base camp, but also with a little regret that our trip was coming to an end. Much of the last day of hiking was spend hiking down a long dirt road heading toward the pickup spot where a bus eventually picked us up. The most remarkable thing was the spotting of a blue scorpian along the hike. We returned to base camp dirty and a bit tired, but also fulfilled after taking the trek of a lifetime..
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